Long Waves Associated with Bichromatic Waves   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

DONG Guohai 《中国海洋工程》2001,(2):281-289

A numerical model of low frequency waves is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the nu-merical techniques used in the solution are based on the so-called Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave setup. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved with a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in modeling low frequency waves associated with incident bichromalic waves.  相似文献   

Statistics of nonlinear wave crests and groups   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

M. Aziz Tayfun   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(11-12):1589-1622

Groups of large nonlinear waves with sharper higher crests can pose hazards to ships, induce harbor resonance and cause wave-overtopping of fixed and floating structures. Past interest in wave groups has mostly been focused on the statistics and modeling of linear wave groups. Studies on nonlinear wave groups are surprisingly few, and address deep water waves only. Here, statistics of nonlinear wave crests and wave-crest groups in deep and transitional water depths are considered, using an appropriate second-order representation for crest heights and the continuous wave-envelope approach. In particular, theoretical expressions describing the statistics of nonlinear wave crests and their groups are posed in the form of a simple second-order transformation of well-known results on linear waves. Predictions from the transformation so posed compare well with nonlinear wave data gathered in the North Sea, and demonstrate that nonlinearities do affect the statistics of large wave crests and their groups significantly.  相似文献   

双层局部开孔板沉箱对波浪反射的理论研究   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

李玉成  刘洪杰滕斌 《海洋工程》2005,23(1):18-27,32

提出了一种用于研究由双层开孔板和一个不透水后板的开孔结构对斜向波反射率的理论分析方法。整个流域被分成三个子域，在每个子域内应用特征函数展开法以得到该域内包含未知展开系数的势函数的表达式，在速度势的展开中，考虑了非传播模态波浪的影响。通过匹配开孔板处的边界条件可以求解待定的展开系数，继而求解双层开孔板防波堤结构对斜向波的反射率。数值计算结果与试验结果进行了比较，符合较好。并进一步讨论了几个重要因素对反射系数的影响。  相似文献   

Three-dimensional numerical simulation of obfique wave action on vertical walls     

LI Benxia YU Xiping YU Yuxiu 《海洋学报(英文版)》2006,25(1):147-153

A three-dimensional numerical model based on the potential theory was developed to study the oblique wave action on vertical walls. A source term inside the domain was used to generate incident waves and outgoing waves were dissipated by sponge layers and transmitted by radiation boundaries. The finite difference method was used to solve the governing equations and boundary conditions in the regular transformed domain in σ-coordinate. Satisfactory agreements between the numerical predictions and experimental results of wave force were obtained. It is concluded that the maximum wave force acting on the vertical walls is induced by the obliquely incident waves rather than the normally incident waves.  相似文献   

Seasonal Variability of Near-Surface Heat Budget of Selected Oceanic Areas in the North Tropical Indian Ocean   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

Chithra Shaji  Satoshi Iizuka  Tomonori Matsuura 《Journal of Oceanography》2003,59(1):87-103

The results obtained from an Ocean General Circulation Model (OGCM), the Modular Ocean Model 2.2, forced with the National Center for Environmental Prediction/National Center for Atmospheric Research reanalysis data, and observational data have been utilized to document the climatological seasonal cycle of the upper ocean response in the Tropical Indian Ocean. We address the various roles played by the net surface heat flux and the local and remote ocean dynamics for the seasonal variation of near-surface heat budget in the Tropical Indian Ocean. The investigation is based in seven selected boxes in the Arabian Sea, Bay of Bengal and the Equatorial Indian Ocean. The changes of basin-wide heat budget of ocean process in the Arabian Sea and the Western Equatorial Indian Ocean show an annual cycle, whereas those in the Bay of Bengal and the Eastern Equatorial Indian Ocean show a semi-annual cycle. The time tendency of heat budget in the Arabian Sea depends on both the net surface heat flux and ocean dynamics while on the other hand, that in the Bay of Bengal depends mainly on the net surface flux. However, it has been found that the changes of heat budget are very different between western and eastern regional sea areas in the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal, respectively. This difference depends on seasonal variations of the different local wind forcing and the different ocean dynamics associated with ocean eddies and Kelvin and Rossby waves in each regional sea areas. We also discuss the comparison and the connection for the seasonal variation of near-surface heat budget among their regional sea areas. This revised version was published online in July 2006 with corrections to the Cover Date.  相似文献   

Flow fields in reflected waves at a sloped sea wall     

Gerald Müller   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(11-12):1786-1789

Wave run-up, and flow visualization experiments were conducted with a 1:2 sloped sea wall model. The visualization experiments gave an overview of flow fields in reflected, non-breaking conditions. Maximum particle velocities were found to be significantly smaller than suggested in the literature. Downrush produced a fast sheet flow, extending down to the toe of the sea wall. This created a ‘reverse’ breaker during the retreat of the initially non-breaking wave, which explains the high-energy dissipation rates for non-breaking waves reported in the literature. Embankments may therefore be exposed to wave impact pressures in areas up to 1.18H₀ below MWL.  相似文献   

Bathymetric segregation of sea urchins on reefs of the Canarian Archipelago: Role of flow-induced forces   总被引：1，自引：0，他引：1  

F. Tuya  J. Cisneros-Aguirre  L. Ortega-Borges  R.J. Haroun 《Estuarine, Coastal and Shelf Science》2007,73(3-4):481-488

We examined whether adults of three species of sea urchins species (Diadema antillarum, Arbacia lixula, and Paracentrotus lividus) exhibit a consistent depth-dependent partitioning pattern on rocky reefs of the Canarian Archipelago (eastern Atlantic). Hydrodynamic experiments were carried out to quantify the resistance to flow-induced dislodgement in these three species. We tested the model that different morphology can result in habitat partitioning among these sea urchins. Abundances of D. antillarum increased with depth. In contrast, A. lixula and P. lividus showed the opposite zonation pattern, coexisting in high abundances in the shallowest depths (<5 m), and occurring in low densities in the deepest part of reefs (>7 m). Both A. lixula and P. lividus had greater adhesion-surface to body-height ratios than D. antillarum. Similarly, A. lixula and P. lividus showed a greater ability to resist flow-induced dislodgement compared with D. antillarum. The mean “velocity of dislodgement” was 300% and 50% greater for A. lixula and P. lividus, respectively, relative to D. antillarum, for any particular size. As a result, A. lixula and P. lividus are better fitted to life in high-flow environments than D. antillarum. We conclude that the risk of dislodgement by water motion likely play a relevant role in the vertical distribution patterns of these sea urchins in the eastern Atlantic.  相似文献   

Analytic Solution of Interaction Between Surface Waves and Floating Elastic Plates with Elastic End-Restraints     

赵存宝张嘉钟  邢海燕黄文虎 《中国海洋工程》2007,21(1):23-38

Based on the dynamic theories of water waves and Mindlin plates,the analytic solution of interaction between surface waves and two-dimensional floating elastic plates with edge-restraint is constructed by use of the Wiener-Hopf technique.Firstly,without regard for elastic edge restraint,the wave-induced responses of elastic floating plate analyzed by the present method are in good agreement with the results from literature and experimental results.Therefore,it can be shown that the present method is valid.Secondly,three end-restraint cases(i.e.,the left-end elastic restraints,the both-end elastic restraints,and the right-end elastic restraints)are proposed to reduce the vibration of floating plates,in which the spring is used to connect the sea bottom and the floating plate's left(or right)edge.The relations between the spring stiffness and the parameters of wave-induced responses of floating plates are discussed.Moreover,the effective method to reduce the vibration of floating elastic plates can be obtained through comparison.  相似文献   

具有内波特性的渤海南部次重力波     

范植松  高郭平  尹训强  范宇  吴玮 《海洋学报》2003,25(5):136-140

次重力波(infragravity waves)是频率范围介于局地平均Brunt-V¾is¾l¾频率和0.05Hz(涌浪频率)之间的一种海洋波动,其能量在深水大洋中一般甚低,但在浅海中却很强.该波动的研究对于浅海海洋内部混合、近岸海洋工程、海洋生态学、海洋沉积学及军事海洋学均有重要的意义.Munk[1]很早就开始研究这类波动,然而主要由于观测技术的限制,对于该类波动的动力学机制的研究进展迟缓.  相似文献   

Numerical Investigation on the Generation and Propagation of Irregular Waves in A Two-Dimensional Wave Tank     

Ruey-syanSHIH Chung-renCHOU JohnZ.YIM 《中国海洋工程》2004,18(4):551-566

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